Murphy Ranch – The Nazi Compound in Rustic Canyon

This easy 3.1 mile lollipop loop hike in Rustic Canyon has the added bonus of a lesson from one of the more bizarre chapters in Los Angeles history. In the 1930’s, work began on an elaborate complex known as Murphy Ranch. Ostensibly, Ms. Murphy was wealthy heiress who wanted to build a mansion back in the secluded Rustic Canyon on land purchased from Will Rogers. Records suggest that there never was a “Ms. Murphy” (although the name stuck) and in fact, the Silver Shirts — a pro-Nazi organization — was building a self-sufficient compound where they could ride out World War II until Hitler finally won. Obviously, things didn’t turn out as they planned.

The day after Pearl Harbor, the compound was seized and the inhabitants arrested. But 80 years later, many of the structures and artifacts from the original compound remain. Hiking back to Murphy Ranch is scenic, but also a fascinating glimpse of  “Hidden LA.”

Getting to the Trailhead

There is no official trailhead parking, and the street parking nearest the trail is permit only. We found free street parking on Amalfi Drive near the intersection with Capri Drive in Pacific Palisades, but be sure to read the signs carefully. From there, we walked uphill on Capri to the end and turned left on Casale Road, following it into Rustic Canyon. At the last house, the trail begins and Casale Road becomes the Sullivan Fire Road. You’ll find the area here on Google Maps.

Hiking to Murphy Ranch

About 1/4 mile down the Sullivan Fire Road we reached a gate with a sign for Camp Josepho. This is a Boy Scout camp operated roughly in the area further up the canyon beyond Murphy Ranch.

At about one mile down the fire road, you’ll reach a break in a chain link fence on your left. This leads to a series of over 500 concrete steps down into Rustic Canyon, built as part of a network of paths and stairs that dot the compound.

We started down the stairs. Just below the road is a large storage tank, apparently for fuel (there’s another large tank for water you’ll pass later). Put in that context, you can understand that the people who built this compound were really planning to hunker down. They were striving to be completely self-sufficient.

The tank is covered in street art, both outside and inside. As you wander around the tank, take a moment to peer into the opening near the ground and you’ll be able to catch a glimpse of the artwork inside the tank as well.

We headed down the steps. And down. And down.

 

It’s really remarkable how many steps there are. Fortunately, we’re not going to take the steps back out of the canyon.

Before you reach the bottom of Rustic Canyon, you’ll come to a paved road. Turn right, and keep your eyes open for (you guessed it) another set of stairs heading down to the bottom of the canyon on your left. As you come down these stairs, you’ll get a glimpse of the power house pictured at the top of this post.

To your left, you’ll see the remains of the greenhouse. Within these raised bed planters, the group planned to grow their own food.

We walked around and inside the power house, where two street artists were working on new pieces. The power house is in amazingly good condition given it’s age and the simple fact that no one is maintaining it. The street artists who paint it have adopted it as their own ever-evolving canvas — with layers upon layers of art covering every inch of wall and ceiling.

From the power house, we followed Rustic Canyon Trail (an old paved road at this point) up the canyon to explore the other ruins.

It’s surprising what you can see amid the rubble and rust. An old sink. A refrigerator. A stove. Signs that people lived here at one time, now long ago.

Taking in our fill of the compound, we turned and head back to the power house, then up the first stairs to the south. At the paved road, turn left this time, and follow it up into Rustic Canyon. You’ll pass a grove of eucalyptus trees planted in the early 20th century by Abbot Kinney — better known for starting the city of Venice, California. The road winds around and climbs higher and higher. You’ll reach a bend that wraps around a large water tank, and then see the main gate to the complex ahead.

This gate leads back to the Sullivan Fire Road. Follow the fire road south, about 1.25 miles back to your starting point. You’ll see some great views back down Rustic Canyon on your way back to the trailhead.

The Future of Murphy Ranch

Most of Rustic Canyon is part of the Topanga State Park, but Murphy Ranch is an “island” currently owned by the City of Los Angeles. The city would like to give the land to Topanga State Park, but they won’t accept it until the ruins are demolished — a costly proposition.

From time to time, there are reports and rumors that the buildings are scheduled for demolition. For now, Murphy Ranch survives as a canvas for local street artists and a reminder of a strange chapter in LA’s history.

Tom Explores Los Angeles has some great details on the history of Murphy Ranch.

Murphy Ranch Trail Map

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Murphy Ranch Hiking Tips

• There’s plenty of sun exposure on the fire road. Bring sunscreen and a hat.
• The area is not maintained, and the buildings and structures are in various states of ruin. There are many hazards, and I probably wouldn’t bring children here.
• Dogs are allowed (unusual since the trail passes through Topanga State Park) but must be kept on leash.

More Murphy Ranch Resources

• Murphy’s Ranch: Abandoned Nazi Camp in Santa Monica – California Through My Lens
• Rustic Canyon’s Nazi Ruins “Murphy Ranch” in the Santa Monica Mountains – Hikespeak
• Rustic Canyon: Hiking from the Murphy Ranch Nazi Compound to Camp Josepho – Greene Adventures
• What Really Happened at Rustic Canyon’s Rumored Nazi Ranch? – Curbed LA

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