This was our first long, challenging day, and the first one that felt like the Lake District. Nearly 15 miles of beautiful trail, from the shore of Ennerdale Water to a steep climb into the mountains, and then a descent into Borrowdale. It ended with one of the best nights of the whole trip.
We were up early. Since we’d stayed a second night in Cleator, we took a cab from the hotel back to Ennerdale Bridge and started walking at 7:41 am. With the rest breaks, the day took us 9 hours and 27 minutes from start to finish, with 6 hours 30 minutes of that actually moving.
The Route
The day begins with a walk to Ennerdale Water and then follows the lake for several miles on beautiful trails. It’s easy, scenic walking, and a good way to warm up for what’s coming.
Past the lake, the valley narrows and the route continues to the YHA Black Sail hostel, where we took a rest break. From there it’s a steep climb up into the mountains. After the top you cross through the old slate mine workings at Honister and then head down the valley toward Longthwaite and Rosthwaite.
There’s nowhere to buy lunch between Ennerdale Bridge and Borrowdale, so pack a lunch from your inn before you set out.
Highlights
Ennerdale Water. Beautiful trails along the lake, with the fells rising ahead of you. Take your time, because the hard part comes later.
YHA Black Sail. A good place for a rest before the climb. It’s remote, and it feels like it.
The climb and the slate mine. The steep climb out of the valley is the hardest part of the day. Crossing through the slate mine afterward is a fun change of scenery.
Where to Stay
The Leathes Head Hotel — Borrowdale (near Rosthwaite)
After a long, challenging day, this was a real treat. A beautiful room, a gourmet dinner, and a wonderful stay. It was our splurge for the Lake District, and it was worth it.
2023 cost: $341
For future walkers: Book early. Options in Borrowdale are limited, and the good ones fill up.
Where to Eat
Dinner: The Leathes Head Hotel. A gourmet dinner in the hotel restaurant, and a real reward after 16 miles. Can you believe this set menu? Amuse bouche, Cumbrian ale bread, caramelized onion and miso butter; chicken wing, scallop, hen of the woods, Thai green sauce, apple marigold vinegar gel; pan roasted sea bass, Jerusalem artichoke, Jersey royals, asparagus, St. Georges mushrooms, wild garlic foam; meadow sweet brulée, gariguette strawberries, lemon verbena gel, pink peppercorn tuile; petit fours.
Practical Notes
Pack your lunch. There’s nothing to buy between Ennerdale Bridge and Borrowdale.
Start early. This is the longest day so far, with a steep climb in the second half. We started at 7:41 am and were still on the trail for more than nine hours. An early start gives you time for the rest break and the climb.
Getting back to the trail. If you’re staying in Cleator, as we were, book a cab to Ennerdale Bridge the night before. It saves you retracing the road walk from Day 2. Staying in Ennerdale Bridge itself avoids the problem altogether.
Book dinner. If you’re staying at the Leathes Head, reserve a table when you book your room.
The Day in Numbers
| Start | Ennerdale Bridge, Cumbria (7:41 am) |
| Finish | Rosthwaite, Borrowdale |
| Distance | 14.95 miles (24.1 km) |
| Elevation gain | 1,977 ft (603 m) |
| Terrain | Lakeside trail, steep mountain climb, old slate workings |
| Difficulty | Strenuous |
Originally hiked May 27, 2023.
Jeff has hiked and explored trails for over 50 years, covering everything from casual canyon walks to rugged multi-day Sierra routes. He started SoCalHiker.net in 2010 to document the trails he loves — and to make it easier for others to discover them.
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